Fuse Signifying Characters

A question was asked: “The letters, like a FRN-R or FLM or FNM before the Ampere rating (amp), are referred to specified conditions or is only manufacturers codes?”

Each manufacturer has their own blend of alphanumeric characters to signify a particular fuse. I am not sure if each character of a particular part number of a fuse serves as a code to explain particulars of that fuse. However, some characters do represent something special or different.

For example: Bussmann has a named fuse FRN. The amperage rating will follow these characters. Like this; FRN-1. One is the amperage rating. I do not know if and what FRN stands for. These fuses are called Fusetron. Is it short for that? If so, then what would the competitor’s equivalent part number represent. Gould had an equivalent part series TR. These are called Tri-onic. Again, the amperage rating follows the alpha characters; like TR2.

Now look at this. Bussmann has a fuse named FRN-R. The R after the hyphen is a symbol to represent that the particular fuse is a “rejection” type fuse. Their design is slightly different and are normally current limiting. You cannot physically use an FRN fuse in an FRN-R type fuse block. These fuse blocks are designed to accept only FRN-R type fuses.  Ferraz (Gould) uses the symbol TR(amp)R; like this TR2R. The R after the amperage rating signifies “rejection” type fuse. Littelfuse names their equivalent fuse FLNR. Edison has ECNR. With these, I do not know the significance of the first three characters, but the R probably represents “rejection” type.

It appears that the manufacturers try to assign characters of a particular fuse that will distinguish themselves from their competitors, but at the same time have some kind of reference to the type fuse. But what does KTK represent? This is a Bussmann fuse called Limitron. How does two Ks fit into this? It is also fast-acting so a T, which on some fuses might represent time-delay, could not be applied here. Was this an arbitrary decision to name these fuses as such? The manufacturer should know. Littelfuse’s equivalent part symbol is KLK. Maybe the L represents Littelfuse.

So it appears that the alpha characters can represent specified conditions, such as “rejection” type and/or also signify a code for manufacturers’ parts. Whether these characters always have a logical signification, I am not convinced.

Electrical Safety

Electricity can be very dangerous when handled improperly. Not only can a person die from an electrical shock, but also he can receive serious burns. Loss of property can be attributed to fire because of improper wiring or failure of electrical devices and equipment. Some simple electrical devices and equipment are: circuit breakers, fuses, switches, receptacles, lamp fixtures, small and large appliances, heating, wiring, and associated equipment.

Working with electricity can be safe. The key is to never work on an energized circuit. This, of course, is easier said than done for the fact that electricity cannot be seen, heard, smelled, or tasted. Sometimes, when only the conductor of current is touched, do we know electricity is present. This does not have to be this way.

The following electrical safety tips are written so that the person working on electrical equipment will become more aware of what they are doing so they may do it safely.

What Is Ampere Rating?

Ampere rating is an electrical current value given to every fuse. This value is the allowable current which can flow continuously through the fuse under specified conditions. This value can also be referred to as current-carrying capacity or ampacity. Refer to the NEC (National Electrical Code) requirements when selecting a particular fuse for a circuit.

The following is some examples of part numbers and where the current rating (amp) is listed.

FRN-R-(amp); FRS-R-(amp); TR(amp)R; TRS(amp)R; FLNR-(amp); FLSR-(amp); LPN-RK-(amp) LLNRK-(amp); KTK-R-(amp); FNQ-R-(amp); ATQR(amp); ATMR(amp); LP-CC-(amp) A2D(amp)R; A6D(amp)R; LPJ-(amp)SP; AJT(amp); JKS-(amp); FNM-(amp); FLM-(amp); MDL (amp); AGC (amp); 313(amp); 233(amp); FWH-(amp); A50P(amp); A25X(amp)

What Is Interrupt Rating?

“Interrupt rating” is not the same as “ampere rating,” even though both these are dealing with current values.

When reading technical data about a particular fuse you will see symbols or rather abbreviations such as I.R. or IR which refer to “interrupt rating.” Other abbreviations could be A I.R., A IR, or kA I.R. which is “amperes interrupt rating” or “kilo amperes interrupt rating” respectively.

Given a particular rated voltage, this current rating refers to the maximum amount of instantaneous current that can be interrupted safely without explosion or damage to the fuse link carrier, such as the cartridge or tube. This interruption of current flow can occur in fault or short circuit conditions. This current rating has been approved through standardized tests.

Interrupt rating is also referred to as “breaking capacity.”

What Is A Current Limiting Fuse?

When a short circuit occurs, a current limiting fuse, within its current limiting range, opens within ½ cycle. This prevents the damaging overcurrent to reach its maximum instantaneous short-circuit value in the circuit if that fuse were replaced with a solid conductor of comparable oppositional characteristics to current flow. The instantaneous peak let-though current is the actual maximum let-through current value in the circuit before the fuse opens and clears the circuit under short circuit conditions.

Current limiting fuse

Repair Damaged Rigid Conduit Without Union Fittings

TIP: on how to repair a backhoe damaged underground section of rigid conduit without union fittings.

First remove all conductors.

Use reciprocating saw to remove damaged section of pipe. Clean the burrs off ends of existing conduits to be mated by reaming with a half-moon or round file depending on size of pipe. Clean off any rust or debris the entire length of at least an inch and a half or two inches from the end of the conduits.

If conduit section removed was bent as damage, the remaining ends cut to be mated should now be able to accommodate a new straight section of pipe or at the least a light bend or kick in the new section if needed.

Cut your section of pipe to install to size after you have made any necessary bends. Make the space tolerance between the existing pipe ends and new pipe ends as small as possible. This will insure the best fit for a properly positioned coupling. If the length of rigid pipe to install is less than 10 feet you will need two appropriate sized threadless compression couplings for rigid conduit.

Midway inside the threadless compression coupling is a “pipe stop” or ridge. You need to remove these on both couplings. This will allow the full length of the coupling to move freely on the conduit. A half-moon or round file works good to remove these stops. Remove the compression rings and nuts before you do any filing.

Slide both couplings on the pipe to be installed. Install new section of pipe by sliding the coupling into place on existing conduit end. Make sure that you center the couplings between the ends of pipe so that the compression rings on both ends of coupling will clinch the pipes completely. If you do not center the coupling properly you could have a compression ring clinching partially the conduit end and partially the dead space between the conduits. This would be a bad installation.

Tighten up all connections. As an added benefit to installation, install black vinyl 10 Mil tape over the coupling and the length of the pipe.

Install new conductors.

Simulating Darkness For Photocell

TIP for activating photocell for testing lamps controlled by photocell.
With power to the fixture turned on, place black electrical tape over the cell to simulate darkness or use a dark hat to cover the cell completely.

Connecting Stranded Wire With Solid Wire

TIP: for connecting stranded wire with solid wire. Sizes #10, #12, #14 wire gauge.

If you have more than one stranded wire to be connected, strip the insulation of all wires and wrap the wire strands together. If connecting these with one solid wire, place all the wires parallel making sure that the end of the stranded wires do not fall below the end of the solid wire, i.e., the ends of all the wires should be even. Install wire connector. If connecting the stranded wires with more than one solid wire, first twist the solid wires together, Twisted wirethen cut the tip of the solid wires diagonally, then place all the wires parallel. The ends of all the wires should be even. Install wire connector. Some electricians find it better not to twist the solid wires when using “wire nut” or “wing nut” type connectors; my experience has proven different. After installing the connector, with one hand hold the wires, with the other hand try to pull the connector straight off. It should not come off with mild pulling force. Try pulling the stranded wires separately. They too should not come off with mild pulling force.

Make Room For Devices

If your connection box is full and it is difficult to insert the device (switch or receptacle), find out what kind of wire connectors, if any, are used. There is a type called “wing nuts.” If you have this kind, do the following.

Wirenut
After installing the wire connectors on the wires, cut the wings off the wing nut with diagonal cutters or linesmen pliers. Do this as close to the body of the connector as possible. You may be surprised how much easier it is to position the wires inside the box after the wings are cut off. If you have to remove the wing nut later, you can easily do this by grabbing on to the wing nut using linesmen pliers, then twist off.

What Is A Buss Fuse?

A Buss fuse is an electrical device used to interrupt an overcurrent in an electrical circuit. It acts similar to a device called a circuit breaker. However, a fuse has a link that melts when call upon to protect the electrical circuit. This blown fuse or fuses have to be replaced in order for the electrical circuit to continue carrying an energized load. Buss fuses are manufactured by Cooper/Bussmann.