Alan Speaks Fuses

A question was asked: “The letters, like a FRN-R or FLM or FNM before the Ampere rating (amp), are referred to specified conditions or is only manufacturers codes?”

Each manufacturer has their own blend of alphanumeric characters to signify a particular fuse. I am not sure if each character of a particular part number of a fuse serves as a code to explain particulars of that fuse. However, some characters do represent something special or different.

For example: Bussmann has a named fuse FRN. The amperage rating will follow these characters. Like this; FRN-1. One is the amperage rating. I do not know if and what FRN stands for. These fuses are called Fusetron. Is it short for that? If so, then what would the competitor’s equivalent part number represent. Gould had an equivalent part series TR. These are called Tri-onic. Again, the amperage rating follows the alpha characters; like TR2.

Now look at this. Bussmann has a fuse named FRN-R. The R after the hyphen is a symbol to represent that the particular fuse is a “rejection” type fuse. Their design is slightly different and have higher interrupt ratings than the FRN type fuses. You cannot physically use an FRN fuse in an FRN-R type fuse block. These fuse blocks are designed to accept only FRN-R type fuses. However, you can use an FRN-R type fuse in an FRN type fuse block. Ferraz (Gould) uses the symbol TR(amp)R; like this TR2R. The R after the amperage rating signifies “rejection” type fuse. Littelfuse names their equivalent fuse FLNR. Edison has ECNR. With these, I do not know the significance of the first three characters, but the R probably represents “rejection” type.

It appears that the manufacturers try to assign characters of a particular fuse that will distinguish themselves from their competitors, but at the same time have some kind of reference to the type fuse. But what does KTK represent? This is a Bussmann fuse called Limitron. How does two Ks fit into this? It is also fast-acting so a T, which on some fuses might represent time-delay, could not be applied here. Was this an arbitrary decision to name these fuses as such? The manufacturer should know. Littelfuse’s equivalent part symbol is KLK. Maybe the L represents Littelfuse.

So it appears that the alpha characters can represent specified conditions, such as “rejection” type and/or also signify a code for manufacturers’ parts. Whether these characters always have a logical signification, I am not convinced.

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Electricity can be very dangerous when handled improperly. Not only can a person die from an electrical shock, but also he can receive serious burns. Loss of property can be attributed to fire because of improper wiring or failure of electrical devices and equipment. Some simple electrical devices and equipment are: circuit breakers, fuses, switches, receptacles, lamp fixtures, small and large appliances, heating, wiring, and associated equipment.

Working with electricity can be safe. The key is to never work on an energized circuit. This, of course, is easier said than done for the fact that electricity cannot be seen, heard, smelled, or tasted. Sometimes, when only the conductor of current is touched, do we know electricity is present. This does not have to be this way.

The following electrical safety tips are written so that the person working on electrical equipment will become more aware of what they are doing so they may do it safely.

Ampere rating is an electrical current value given to every fuse. This value is the allowable current which can flow continuously through the fuse under specified conditions. This value can also be referred to as current-carrying capacity or ampacity. Refer to the NEC (National Electrical Code) requirements when selecting a particular fuse for a circuit.

The following is some examples of part numbers and where the current rating (amp) is listed.

FRN-R-(amp); FRS-R-(amp); TR(amp)R; TRS(amp)R; FLNR-(amp); FLSR-(amp); LPN-RK-(amp) LLNRK-(amp); KTK-R-(amp); FNQ-R-(amp); ATQR(amp); ATMR(amp); LP-CC-(amp) A2D(amp)R; A6D(amp)R; LPJ-(amp)SP; AJT(amp); JKS-(amp); FNM-(amp); FLM-(amp); MDL (amp); AGC (amp); 313(amp); 233(amp); FWH-(amp); A50P(amp); A25X(amp)

“Interrupt rating” is not the same as “ampere rating,” even though both these are dealing with current values.

When reading technical data about a particular fuse you will see symbols or rather abbreviations such as I.R. or IR which refer to “interrupt rating.” Other abbreviations could be A I.R., A IR, or kA I.R. which is “amperes interrupt rating” or “kilo amperes interrupt rating” respectively.

Given a particular rated voltage, this current rating refers to the maximum amount of instantaneous current that can be interrupted safely without explosion or damage to the fuse link carrier, such as the cartridge or tube. This interruption of current flow can occur in fault or short circuit conditions. This current rating has been approved through standardized tests.

Interrupt rating is also referred to as “breaking capacity.”

When a short circuit occurs, a current limiting fuse, within its current limiting range, opens within ½ cycle. This prevents the damaging overcurrent to reach its maximum instantaneous short-circuit value in the circuit if that fuse were replaced with a solid conductor of comparable oppositional characteristics to current flow. The instantaneous peak let-though current is the actual maximum let-through current value in the circuit before the fuse opens and clears the circuit under short circuit conditions.

TIP: on how to repair a backhoe damaged underground section of rigid conduit without union fittings.

First remove all conductors.

Use reciprocating saw to remove damaged section of pipe. Clean the burrs off ends of existing conduits to be mated by reaming with a half-moon or round file depending on size of pipe. Clean off any rust or debris the entire length of at least an inch and a half or two inches from the end of the conduits.

If conduit section removed was bent as damage, the remaining ends cut to be mated should now be able to accommodate a new straight section of pipe or at the least a light bend or kick in the new section if needed.

Cut your section of pipe to install to size after you have made any necessary bends. Make the space tolerance between the existing pipe ends and new pipe ends as small as possible. This will insure the best fit for a properly positioned coupling. If the length of rigid pipe to install is less than 10 feet you will need two appropriate sized threadless compression couplings for rigid conduit.

Midway inside the threadless compression coupling is a “pipe stop” or ridge. You need to remove these on both couplings. This will allow the full length of the coupling to move freely on the conduit. A half-moon or round file works good to remove these stops. Remove the compression rings and nuts before you do any filing.

Slide both couplings on the pipe to be installed. Install new section of pipe by sliding the coupling into place on existing conduit end. Make sure that you center the couplings between the ends of pipe so that the compression rings on both ends of coupling will clinch the pipes completely. If you do not center the coupling properly you could have a compression ring clinching partially the conduit end and partially the dead space between the conduits. This would be a bad installation.

Tighten up all connections. As an added benefit to installation, install black vinyl 10 Mil tape over the coupling and the length of the pipe.

Install new conductors.

TIP for activating photocell for testing lamps controlled by photocell.
With power to the fixture turned on, place black electrical tape over the cell to simulate darkness or use a dark hat to cover the cell completely.

TIP: for connecting stranded wire with solid wire. Sizes #10, #12, #14 wire gauge.

If you have more than one stranded wire to be connected, strip the insulation of all wires and wrap the wire strands together. If connecting these with one solid wire, place all the wires parallel making sure that the end of the stranded wires do not fall below the end of the solid wire, i.e., the ends of all the wires should be even. Install wire connector. If connecting the stranded wires with more than one solid wire, first twist the solid wires together, then cut the tip of the solid wires diagonally, then place all the wires parallel. The ends of all the wires should be even. Install wire connector. Some electricians find it better not to twist the solid wires when using “wire nut” or “wing nut” type connectors; my experience has proven different. After installing the connector, with one hand hold the wires, with the other hand try to pull the connector straight off. It should not come off with mild pulling force. Try pulling the stranded wires separately. They too should not come off with mild pulling force.

If your connection box is full and it is difficult to insert the device (switch or receptacle), find out what kind of wire connectors, if any, are used. There is a type called “wing nuts.” If you have this kind, do the following.

After installing the wire connectors on the wires, cut the wings off the wing nut with diagonal cutters or linesmen pliers. Do this as close to the body of the connector as possible. You may be surprised how much easier it is to position the wires inside the box after the wings are cut off. If you have to remove the wing nut later, you can easily do this by grabbing on to the wing nut using linesmen pliers, then twist off.

A Buss fuse is an electrical device used to interrupt an overcurrent in an electrical circuit. It acts similar to a device called a circuit breaker. However, a fuse has a link that melts when call upon to protect the electrical circuit. This blown fuse or fuses have to be replaced in order for the electrical circuit to continue carrying an energized load. Buss fuses are manufactured by Cooper/Bussmann.

TIP: for Switches or Receptacles recessed too much because of faulty installation of box or plaster ring.

Sometimes in the installation of a device box, a craftsperson may install it too deep in the wall not allowing for the thickness of the drywall or plywood covering. If a metal box is used, they may use a plaster ring too shallow; again not allowing for the thickness of the drywall or plywood covering. As a result of this kind of installation, the device, such as a switch or duplex receptacle may not seat properly when fastened down. In addition, sometimes the tabs on these devices do not seat against the drywall when fastened down because the opening for the device box of the drywall was cut too much.

If you find an outlet box that has not been installed properly or the device opening on the wall covering too large, there are at least four things you can do to have the device seat snuggly.

1. You can use an appropriate size metal or plastic spacer over the hold down screw. If you do not have these handy, read on for other methods.

2. This next method is more complex and does not always work given the materials and time to work with. If you have the right type of flat head screw for the device hold-down, this next method might work sufficiently. Unless it has been changed by a maintenance person, the standard size screws are number 6-32. Put the screw in the device hold-down hole or if the screw is already in the device hole, take the paper card that holds the screw off. Take a 6-32 nut and screw it on the number 6 screw that holds down the device. Screw the nut all the way, it should not put pressure on the device itself. If it does you will not be able to screw the screw to the box. For the ideal, there should be some light play or slop so the screw has movement. If this cannot be achieved, move on to the next method. Take another 6-32 nut and screw in on the screw. Adjust the nut on the screw to the proper distance needed so that the device does not sink into the wall when screwing the screw. You may need to do this process with both screws that fasten the device to the box. If the nut turns while screwing in the screw the purpose of the nut will be defeated. You can carefully crimp or cut a groove on the screw diagonally across the threads. This will prevent the nut from moving any further than desired while screwing in the screw. The threads of the screw have to be cut exactly where you want the nut to stop.

3. This next method is less complicated and will work well if you have the parts. With the device 6-32 hold-down screws, use a combination of oversize nuts like 8-32 as wide spacers and small flat washers. You can also use a 6-32 nut to hold them in place. The washers work well to make fine adjustments to length.

4. With this next method you make your own spacer. Take  #12 insulated soft drawn solid copper wire and wrap a length of it around the screw. Soft drawn copper wire is easier to bend and work with. Keep the insulation on the wire. It may be easier to first form the wire, then slip it over the screw without taking the screw off the device. Form the wire longer than needed, install on screw, then cut to proper length with diagonal pliers or cutters.

With all these methods, make sure your device is grounded properly. Some of these methods may compromise a good ground. In this case use a bare or green insulated copper wire attached to the device’s ground screw and proper ground. It just takes some practice to see which method works best for a given situation. Give it a try.

What you need to know about overstock, oversupply, or surplus fuses that are new, nos, and used. This information could save you a significant amount on your fuse purchases.

How fuses are described by the distributor is important for the purchaser in making informed decisions. It is especially important for the surplus fuse supplier that their descriptions remain consistent. The following is the standard for Alan’s Sales.

The word surplus sometimes carries the idea of products being cheap, unreliable, or inexpensively manufactured. But this is just not true if the surplus fuses are named brand. If you purchase a named brand fuse you are getting the same product whether it is surplus or otherwise. With surplus new or new old stock (NOS) fuses, they are simply new and not used. That is, they have not been energized to carry an electrical load.

With a used fuse or those that are shop worn, these blemishes or conditions have no effect on the reliability and performance of the fuse. The interesting fact about fuses is their reliability relative to time.

There are no moving parts, so with a NEW or NOS fuse there is no wear or tear to the product, except for handling, such as in storing and for a USED fuse installing and removing the fuse – that’s it!

According to Ferraz-Shawmut a leading fuse manufacturer, “The speed of response of a fuse will not change or slow down as the fuse ages. “In other words, the fuse’s ability to provide protection is not adversely affected by the passage of time.” (The Advisor-Application Information, 10 Reasons For Using Current Limiting Fuses)

On occasion, some NEW or NOS fuses may look used, shop worn, or even dirty. The appearance of the fuse does not affect its performance. From a practical sense, it does not really make a difference what the fuse looks like when you install it and put it to work? However, with Alans Sales not all surplus fuses are bad looking. In fact, Alan’s Sales has some pretty good looking USED fuses at some better looking prices. However, the appearance is not guaranteed. Remember, it is the technical and performance aspects of the fuse which serve the purpose in overcurrent circuit protection.

Whether you are purchasing NEW, NOS, or USED fuses, only purchase fuses from dealers who will stand behind their product with a fair refund/exchange policy. Also check out Alan’s Sales high standards for fuse quality control.

TIP: Make drilling into mild steel metal boxes, cans, and fixtures easier and faster.

I find that using any kind of petroleum based oil applied to the tip of the drill bit or hole saw speeds up the cutting of the hole. For larger size holes reapply the oil when the cutting slows down. Always use a sharp drill bit.

TIP: How to drill your lag screws more smoothly.

Ivory soap can be used for more than cleaning. Soaps can be used as lubrication for screwing sheet metal or lag screws into wood. Take the screw and draw the threads of the screw across the soap to apply the soap. Be liberal with the soap. With lag screw, first drill a pilot hole smaller in diameter than the lag screw. Make sure to apply the soap at the beginning of the threads of the screw.

TIP: How to keep the strands of numbers 10, 12 & 14 stranded wire together.

When normally installing wire on the binding screw of a device (switch, etc.), you simply strip the insulation off, make your hook, then install around the binding screw, then apply firm clockwise rotating pressure of the screw on the wire. No problem when installing solid wire, but with stranded wire you will usually end up with the wire fraying away from the binding screw. This is not the best connection. Here is one way to keep the strands together.

First, strip completely off the wire about 7/8 of an inch to 1 inch of insulation. Next strip about 3/16 of an inch to 1/4 of an inch of insulation, but do not take this piece of insulation off. Slide the piece of insulation all the way to the end of the wire; keep about 1/16 of an inch of wire visible at the end of the wire.

Now make your hook and install wire on the device binding screw.

TIP: How to get a drill bit through carpet without making a carpet run.

Do not drill though carpet. Cut a cross + in the carpet with a utility knife. The middle of the cross is where you will drill. Keep the cuts small. When drilling, this will prevent the bit from grabbing on to a carpet thread and creating a carpet run.

TIP: How to hold a screw on the screwdriver.

An easy way of holding a screw on a screwdriver is to simply use a “holding screw screwdriver.” If you do not have one of these tools, there is another way.

Take a piece of black electrical tape. While holding the screwdriver and the screw with the screwdriver in the slot of the screw head, wrap the tape around the head of the screw and screwdriver together. Make sure to have more tape on the screwdriver than on the screw. Black electrical tape can be stretched to fit the unevenness of both parts. After installing the screw part way, simply pull the screwdriver away from the screw, the tape should come with the screwdriver. Use another screwdriver to drive home the screw. This way you can reuse the tape on the screwdriver for another screw. This tip works best with Phillip’s screwheads.

What about fuses verses breakers? Each of these serve a purpose in providing overcurrent protection in electrical circuits. They both have pros and cons.

Circuit breakers are reusable whenever an electrical circuit experiences an overcurrent in the circuit, which then trips the breaker. The breaker is simply reset with its switch handle. This, at first appearance, can effectively reduce the cost of overcurrent protection especially if you experience high incidents of overcurrents. However, there are still some drawbacks with breakers when comparing them to fuses.

For one, circuit breakers have mechanical parts, which creates an inherent increase in required maintenance for the breakers.

Breakers need to be exercised periodically by switching them. This essentially interrupts active loads. Fuses do not have any moving parts. Therefore, eliminating this kind of maintenance. The cost for maintenance for circuit breakers needs to be factored in when considering the use of fuses verses circuit breakers. Safety may be compromised if breakers are not maintained properly or replaced when the integrity of the breaker has been degraded. Also the associated circuit breaker equipment needs to be maintained, such as the breaker and wire termination points, and ensuring proper mounting.

Fuse associated equipment also needs to be maintained with its terminations, clips, and disconnects; but again, there are no moving parts.

Fuse links are not reusable. Once they experience an overcurrent such as short-circuit or overload beyond its rated limits, it opens (blows) by the fuse link melting. You have to replace the fuse with a new fuse or fuse link. Ironically, here is where using fuses shine. Where circuit breakers can degrade by their movable parts, this can lead to a breaker’s calibrated settings being affected, this does not happen to a fuse.

This is important for various types of circuitry and loads to be protected. If the calibration of the circuit breaker is adversely affected and does not open when called upon based on its current rating, this could possibly damage the conductors or the loads being protected. This also could pose a fire hazard. Using fuses eliminates this potential problem.

Other circuit breaker failure considerations are a burned out trip coil or the trip mechanism becoming immovable because of corroding buildup, dirt, and/or dried out lubricant. Certain breakers with electronic components can also fail when the electronic component fails. Again, these problems can result in a fire hazard to life and property.

Whenever a fuse is called upon to perform its action of protection by the fuse link opening, a new fuse is installed providing optimum calibration settings. Because of this, using fuses provides reliability and confidence of performance beyond that of circuit breakers.

Still, for certain uses, breakers are the way to go. Nevertheless, for ultimate protection, in this arena of consideration, nothing beats a fuse.

Because of the difference of electrical utilization of fixtures, equipment, and machinery, fuses are manufactured in basically two time characteristic types; fast-acting and time-delay.

With little or no inductive loads, such as motors and transformers, fast-acting fuses are better suited for incandescent lighting and general purpose use. Fast-acting fuses provide protection from short circuit and sustained overloads. Increasing the fast-acting fuse rating 200 to 300 percent of load current to compenstate for nusiance opening, because of in-rush currents from inductive loads, results in ineffective overload protection. A time-delay fuse would be better suited in this case.

High speed or very fast-acting fuses are used to protect solid state devices such as semiconductors or rectifiers.

Time-delay fuses are better suited for inductive loads, such as motors and transformers where high initial in-rush currents are experienced on startup. These fuses help to prevent unnecessary opening resulting in unproductive downtime. This can be a nuisance especially from a manufacturing standpoint with downtime and maintenance personnel costs, not to mention increased fuse replacement costs. Time-delay fuses offer the protection from short circuit and sustained overloads with the added benefit from opening because of harmless surge currents. Time-delay fuses also allow for downsizing the rating of fuses on most motor loads closer to 125 to 150 percent of motor full load current. This reduced fuse rating could possibly reduce fuse size and disconnect which could also reduce cost.

A fuse is simply a carrier of electrical current which has a special function to interrupt the passage of current flow whenever there is an overcurrent in its path. An overcurrent could be a sustained overload, fault, or short circuit in the wiring, equipment, or electrical devices. These materials have an electrical rating and an overcurrent occurs when the current exceeds that rating. The link inside the fuse housing is made and designed of materials which are calibrated to open the circuit by melting whenever there is an overcurrent beyond its calibration settings to safely carry electrical current. Once the fuse link has opened the fuse has done its job in circuit protection. This fuse is commonly referred to as blown; and will need to be replaced once the condition that caused the fuse to blow has been remedied or repaired.